I keep hearing that our SPOT tracker is not doing a good job.
Sorry, but I can only suspect that coverage out here is not good. It is running through batteries almost as fast as I can change them and we are just about out of batteries for it.
I will most likely turn it off until the last day's approach to Cascais.
Will try to post updates a bit more often, but SSB connection is not easy out here right now either.
We are fine.
-Jim
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Morpheus was designed by Carl Schumacher, built by Davie Norris Boatbuilders in New Zealand and launched in 2002. She spent her first 18 months cruising the South Pacific before reaching her home port of San Francisco. Since that time, Morpheus has been raced extensively, and this blog along with our website www.jdgregory.com will document her ongoing adventures.
Friday, May 17, 2013
MW Ship's Log May 16 - Genius is as genius does
Dateline: 10:00 A.M. Wednesday May 17
Status:
165 nm traversed on Day 1 of the Sao Miguel => Cascais, Portugal passage. It's been mostly sail and little motor since departing the Azores 24 hours before.
I'd like to take this opportunity to make a correction to the last post. I may have inadvertently created the false impression that only one of the crew had a hangover as we departed Ponta Delgada Marina. This is incorrect. The correct count was three hangovers and one sleep deprived zombie who was probably too jet-lagged to notice that he was also hung-over. The general consensus was that Phillip's coffee concoction, although delicious, was a mistake. Interesting to note, regardless of crew condition, I found the departure to be our smoothest, easiest, least stress inducing de-docking marina exit yet. Make of that what you will.
As a statistical footnote: Bob traversed 11,000 miles and nine airports during his 40 hour jaunt to California and back. We're glad to have the crew complete again and back on the 4 man watch rotation. Discussions continue on how Bob should make up his four missing watches during the Faial to Sao Miguel passage. Some feel he should simply stand a an eight hour watch and get it over with. I believe that would be too punitive and am advocating a different scheme - each of us can play the "Bob card" for one watch during the rest of the passage. Felling a little too warm and comfy in your bunk when it is time for that 3 AM watch? Just roll over and say - "Let Bob do it."
The first day sail from Sao Miguel was essentially a re-run of the departure from Faial. Nice easy sailing in sunshine as we traversed the South coast of the Isle. Smooth seas, favorable winds, lots of birds and interesting sights on the island rolling past our port beam. Then we emerge from the protective shadow of the Island. Mixed currents, shifting, gusty winds from 18-26 knots, squalls, and heavy confused swells. Lot's of bouncing around and the crew mostly below deck when not on watch. Double reefed and no jib most of the way. Still picked up 165 miles.
Most interesting sight we did not see:
We passed within 30 miles of Ferrelgas - An active volcano that rises over 9,000 feet from the floor of the ocean to within 10 feet of the surface.
Dinner:
Deb's delicious Texas hash for those who trusted their stomachs at dinner time. Otherwise - Ramen Noodles.
Quote of the Day:
"I feel like a genius for deciding to stay in port last night." Captain Jim basking in the sunshine, enjoying the perfect sailing conditions just before we emerge from the protective sheltering effect of Saint Michael Island.
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Status:
165 nm traversed on Day 1 of the Sao Miguel => Cascais, Portugal passage. It's been mostly sail and little motor since departing the Azores 24 hours before.
I'd like to take this opportunity to make a correction to the last post. I may have inadvertently created the false impression that only one of the crew had a hangover as we departed Ponta Delgada Marina. This is incorrect. The correct count was three hangovers and one sleep deprived zombie who was probably too jet-lagged to notice that he was also hung-over. The general consensus was that Phillip's coffee concoction, although delicious, was a mistake. Interesting to note, regardless of crew condition, I found the departure to be our smoothest, easiest, least stress inducing de-docking marina exit yet. Make of that what you will.
As a statistical footnote: Bob traversed 11,000 miles and nine airports during his 40 hour jaunt to California and back. We're glad to have the crew complete again and back on the 4 man watch rotation. Discussions continue on how Bob should make up his four missing watches during the Faial to Sao Miguel passage. Some feel he should simply stand a an eight hour watch and get it over with. I believe that would be too punitive and am advocating a different scheme - each of us can play the "Bob card" for one watch during the rest of the passage. Felling a little too warm and comfy in your bunk when it is time for that 3 AM watch? Just roll over and say - "Let Bob do it."
The first day sail from Sao Miguel was essentially a re-run of the departure from Faial. Nice easy sailing in sunshine as we traversed the South coast of the Isle. Smooth seas, favorable winds, lots of birds and interesting sights on the island rolling past our port beam. Then we emerge from the protective shadow of the Island. Mixed currents, shifting, gusty winds from 18-26 knots, squalls, and heavy confused swells. Lot's of bouncing around and the crew mostly below deck when not on watch. Double reefed and no jib most of the way. Still picked up 165 miles.
Most interesting sight we did not see:
We passed within 30 miles of Ferrelgas - An active volcano that rises over 9,000 feet from the floor of the ocean to within 10 feet of the surface.
Dinner:
Deb's delicious Texas hash for those who trusted their stomachs at dinner time. Otherwise - Ramen Noodles.
Quote of the Day:
"I feel like a genius for deciding to stay in port last night." Captain Jim basking in the sunshine, enjoying the perfect sailing conditions just before we emerge from the protective sheltering effect of Saint Michael Island.
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Thursday, May 16, 2013
MW Ship's Log May 15 - Saint Michael
Dateline: 4:00 P.M. Wednesday May 16
Status:
33 nautical miles out of Ponta Delgada Marina on Ilha de Sao Miguel with about 800 nm ahead of us to complete our transatlantic sojourn. Sailing in 20+ knots of wind.
The blog is running a little behind due to a debilitating hangover suffered by one of the crew (who will remain nameless). We were 22 hours sailing from Faial to Sao Miguel Island and spent 18 hours on the Island before setting sail again this morning.
Our passage between the Azore Islands was notable for the three man crew and 2 hour on / 4 hour off watch rotation. I was surprised at the difference. We were all accustomed to the rhythm of life aboard with a the four man rotation. Our crew usually awaken on our own - standing by and ready at the watch change. Everyone had to be prodded awake for their watch during this short island hop. We sailed most of the way, motoring only to charge batteries and for a few short lulls in the wind. It started with a pleasant sunny sail around Pico Island. Once out of the island's protection we were in shifting gusty 16 -25 knot winds with big confused swells most of the night. The short crew*, quick rotation, and weather kept Captain Jim even more on edge than usual. This may have contributed to his decision to give the crew shore leave in Ponta Delgada Marina.
We arrived around 1:30 PM and found Bob waiting for us at the greeting dock. After we secured Morpheus safe and snug in her slip we set out to explore the neighborhood. Which - with this crew - means bars and restaurants and more bars. Another oddity of the shift change is that none of us felt much like eating during the passage.
We had little more than trail mix and oranges since leaving Faial. Now that we were on land, those who arrived by boat were pretty darn hungry. This triggered a Hobbit-like dining schedule while on shore.
First Dinner:
First stop was at a cafe directly across from the Marina (Prato do Dia?). Their "Happy Hour" special was a selection of tapa-like appetizers and a medium beer for 2.50 euros. A good deal. We each ordered a beer and tapas plate, then ordered another beer and tapas plate. Among the tapas shared - octopus salad, shrimp, conch salad, lima beans, snails, new cheese, and French fries. It was all good. Perhaps an indicator of how hungry I was - I forgot to document any of the dishes.
Tweensies:
After wandering a bit, we found a small neighborhood bar with a big screen TV. A big soccer match between Chelsea and Benefica was on tap. We joined the crowd and cheered for Benifica. Beer and batavas bravas (spicy potatoes) softened the blow of Benefica's heartbreaking loss. Despite outplaying Chelsea the entire game, they were beaten on a sloppily defended goal during the last penalty minute of the game.
Second Dinner:
An Italian place called 44 - presumably named after our current president. Or maybe because that is their street address. I couldn't say. Kim found it during our earlier meandering and noted the pasta carbona on the menu. Bacon! That decision was made. An intimate dining room, good service and great food. We started with garlic bread, olive & tomato brucheta, and grilled porcini mushrooms. I was the only one that did not order the carbonara, opting instead for a pasta dish recommended by our server. I'll never remember the name of the dish, but fresh mint was among the herbs and spices. Dinner was accompanied by several bottles of good Portuguese red. Everything was truly excellent - prepared and presented with care. After accepting our effusive compliments Philip the chef offered us a coffee / coffee bean infused liqueur of his own concoction. Exactly the kind of thing you never want to have more than one when finishing a long night of eating and drinking.
Quote of the Day:
"I like it!" - Michael after his fourth shot of Philips coffee liqueur.
*Not a slur about any particular crew member who may or may not be a member of an altitude challenged protected class.
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Status:
33 nautical miles out of Ponta Delgada Marina on Ilha de Sao Miguel with about 800 nm ahead of us to complete our transatlantic sojourn. Sailing in 20+ knots of wind.
The blog is running a little behind due to a debilitating hangover suffered by one of the crew (who will remain nameless). We were 22 hours sailing from Faial to Sao Miguel Island and spent 18 hours on the Island before setting sail again this morning.
Our passage between the Azore Islands was notable for the three man crew and 2 hour on / 4 hour off watch rotation. I was surprised at the difference. We were all accustomed to the rhythm of life aboard with a the four man rotation. Our crew usually awaken on our own - standing by and ready at the watch change. Everyone had to be prodded awake for their watch during this short island hop. We sailed most of the way, motoring only to charge batteries and for a few short lulls in the wind. It started with a pleasant sunny sail around Pico Island. Once out of the island's protection we were in shifting gusty 16 -25 knot winds with big confused swells most of the night. The short crew*, quick rotation, and weather kept Captain Jim even more on edge than usual. This may have contributed to his decision to give the crew shore leave in Ponta Delgada Marina.
We arrived around 1:30 PM and found Bob waiting for us at the greeting dock. After we secured Morpheus safe and snug in her slip we set out to explore the neighborhood. Which - with this crew - means bars and restaurants and more bars. Another oddity of the shift change is that none of us felt much like eating during the passage.
We had little more than trail mix and oranges since leaving Faial. Now that we were on land, those who arrived by boat were pretty darn hungry. This triggered a Hobbit-like dining schedule while on shore.
First Dinner:
First stop was at a cafe directly across from the Marina (Prato do Dia?). Their "Happy Hour" special was a selection of tapa-like appetizers and a medium beer for 2.50 euros. A good deal. We each ordered a beer and tapas plate, then ordered another beer and tapas plate. Among the tapas shared - octopus salad, shrimp, conch salad, lima beans, snails, new cheese, and French fries. It was all good. Perhaps an indicator of how hungry I was - I forgot to document any of the dishes.
Tweensies:
After wandering a bit, we found a small neighborhood bar with a big screen TV. A big soccer match between Chelsea and Benefica was on tap. We joined the crowd and cheered for Benifica. Beer and batavas bravas (spicy potatoes) softened the blow of Benefica's heartbreaking loss. Despite outplaying Chelsea the entire game, they were beaten on a sloppily defended goal during the last penalty minute of the game.
Second Dinner:
An Italian place called 44 - presumably named after our current president. Or maybe because that is their street address. I couldn't say. Kim found it during our earlier meandering and noted the pasta carbona on the menu. Bacon! That decision was made. An intimate dining room, good service and great food. We started with garlic bread, olive & tomato brucheta, and grilled porcini mushrooms. I was the only one that did not order the carbonara, opting instead for a pasta dish recommended by our server. I'll never remember the name of the dish, but fresh mint was among the herbs and spices. Dinner was accompanied by several bottles of good Portuguese red. Everything was truly excellent - prepared and presented with care. After accepting our effusive compliments Philip the chef offered us a coffee / coffee bean infused liqueur of his own concoction. Exactly the kind of thing you never want to have more than one when finishing a long night of eating and drinking.
Quote of the Day:
"I like it!" - Michael after his fourth shot of Philips coffee liqueur.
*Not a slur about any particular crew member who may or may not be a member of an altitude challenged protected class.
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Check-in/OK message from SPOT Morpheus
Morpheus
Latitude:37.72079
Longitude:-25.61740
GPS location Date/Time:05/16/2013 02:54:58 PDT
Message:Just wanted you to know that all is well. Everything is good!
Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/C4N0C/37.72079N/25.61740W
If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=37.72079,-25.61740&ll=37.72079,-25.61740&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Morpheus
You have received this message because Morpheus has added you to their SPOT contact list.
Ready for Adventure
FindMeSPOT.com
Latitude:37.72079
Longitude:-25.61740
GPS location Date/Time:05/16/2013 02:54:58 PDT
Message:Just wanted you to know that all is well. Everything is good!
Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/C4N0C/37.72079N/25.61740W
If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=37.72079,-25.61740&ll=37.72079,-25.61740&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Morpheus
You have received this message because Morpheus has added you to their SPOT contact list.
Ready for Adventure
FindMeSPOT.com
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
MW Ships Log May 14 - Whale Tails and Long Goodbyes
Dateline: 8:00 A.M. Wednesday May 15
Status:
42 nautical miles to the harbor in San Miguel. 822 nautical miles to Lisbon. Mostly sailing since leaving Horta. 19- 25 knots of wind. Some squall overnight and another one on the horizon.
Dinner:
Cold pizza
Tuesday morning I took the opportunity to join an 8:30 AM whale watch tour aboard a zodiac. It was a bone-jarring ride to the South side of Pico Island, but worth it for some spectacular sightings and (relatively) close encounters. Three species of whales spotted (Blue, Sey, Fin) as well as dolphins, turtles, and sea birds. Worthy of a stand-alone post which I will update on the blog at some unspecified time in the future.
At 3:00 PM we extricated ourselves from the double mooring, motored over to the marina office, re-docked, and checked out. By 3:30 we were underway and heading for San Miguel Island. A sunny pleasant sail around the south side of Pico Island, basically following the same route of the zodiac whale watching tour earlier in the day. It'll be a 3 person watch rotation until we pick up Bob - two hours on, four hours off. We figure it will take Bob about the same amount of time traversing airports and flights from California as it will take us the to sail the 108 miles to San Miguel. We should be back to a four man crew in a few hours, then on to Lisbon and the end of our transatlantic passage.
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Status:
42 nautical miles to the harbor in San Miguel. 822 nautical miles to Lisbon. Mostly sailing since leaving Horta. 19- 25 knots of wind. Some squall overnight and another one on the horizon.
Dinner:
Cold pizza
Tuesday morning I took the opportunity to join an 8:30 AM whale watch tour aboard a zodiac. It was a bone-jarring ride to the South side of Pico Island, but worth it for some spectacular sightings and (relatively) close encounters. Three species of whales spotted (Blue, Sey, Fin) as well as dolphins, turtles, and sea birds. Worthy of a stand-alone post which I will update on the blog at some unspecified time in the future.
At 3:00 PM we extricated ourselves from the double mooring, motored over to the marina office, re-docked, and checked out. By 3:30 we were underway and heading for San Miguel Island. A sunny pleasant sail around the south side of Pico Island, basically following the same route of the zodiac whale watching tour earlier in the day. It'll be a 3 person watch rotation until we pick up Bob - two hours on, four hours off. We figure it will take Bob about the same amount of time traversing airports and flights from California as it will take us the to sail the 108 miles to San Miguel. We should be back to a four man crew in a few hours, then on to Lisbon and the end of our transatlantic passage.
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MW Log - May 12 & 13 - Happy Birthday Mrs. Branstad wherever you are.
This is a back-post / placeholder for our last two full days in Horta. I didn't update those dates while in port, as I wanted to use our sporadic internet access to update some of our passage days with photos.
So a belated 100th birthday wish for Bob's mom from the crew of the Morpheus. It's a big day and Bob flew back to California for the family celebration. The plan is for the three of us (me, Jim, Kim) to sail Morpheus to San Miguel Island where we will meet Bob on Wednesday the 15th. The marina is getting crowded as more boats arrive (including three J-Boats), and few boats are leaving. Many seem to be targeting departure on favorable conditions forecast Tuesday - as are we. One consequence is that we now have another boat double parked on our mooring and walking across our deck to get to the dock. This helps Jim keep his edge.
Not a lot doing over these two days besides getting Morpheus ready for the next leg on the passage - fuel, propane, food & clean-up are tops on the list. She doesn't really need much, so plenty of time to explore the harbor community. We've taken a few walks around town and our excursions have are falling into a familiar pattern. Start at the Marina cafe for a beer or coffee. Then up the hill to Peters Cafe Sport for a gin and tonic. We stop at one of the cafe's on the way back for a snack and another beer. Then finish at Cafe International for a night cap.
On Monday's afternoon excursion our favorite taxicab driver hailed us and waved as we walked to a pizza place for lunch. While eating, our favorite bartender from Cafe International walked in, recognized us and chatted at our table for a while about the NBA (he was trying to get the Bulls game for me on the cafe' TV Friday night).
Quote of the Day:
"When you start recognizing everyone in town - it's time to leave." - Jim
"Or even worse - when all the locals recognize you." - Mike
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So a belated 100th birthday wish for Bob's mom from the crew of the Morpheus. It's a big day and Bob flew back to California for the family celebration. The plan is for the three of us (me, Jim, Kim) to sail Morpheus to San Miguel Island where we will meet Bob on Wednesday the 15th. The marina is getting crowded as more boats arrive (including three J-Boats), and few boats are leaving. Many seem to be targeting departure on favorable conditions forecast Tuesday - as are we. One consequence is that we now have another boat double parked on our mooring and walking across our deck to get to the dock. This helps Jim keep his edge.
Not a lot doing over these two days besides getting Morpheus ready for the next leg on the passage - fuel, propane, food & clean-up are tops on the list. She doesn't really need much, so plenty of time to explore the harbor community. We've taken a few walks around town and our excursions have are falling into a familiar pattern. Start at the Marina cafe for a beer or coffee. Then up the hill to Peters Cafe Sport for a gin and tonic. We stop at one of the cafe's on the way back for a snack and another beer. Then finish at Cafe International for a night cap.
On Monday's afternoon excursion our favorite taxicab driver hailed us and waved as we walked to a pizza place for lunch. While eating, our favorite bartender from Cafe International walked in, recognized us and chatted at our table for a while about the NBA (he was trying to get the Bulls game for me on the cafe' TV Friday night).
Quote of the Day:
"When you start recognizing everyone in town - it's time to leave." - Jim
"Or even worse - when all the locals recognize you." - Mike
----------
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Tuesday, May 14, 2013
So where has Debbie been?????
Hello All! Debbie here!
As some of you may have noticed, I have been conspicuously absent from the boat since April 23rd! I have to admit, I jumped ship in St. Martin. Even though I have crossed the Pacific from New Zealand to San Fransisco, and from Hawaii to San Fransisco 3 times, I have NO desire to cross the Atantic. Even "skirting" it from the New York to the Caribbean via Bermuda has been enough to have me serriosly considering life back in Danville. So, since nothing goes windward like a 747, Ita and I jumpped on a plane to spend some time in the states visiting family while Jim, Kim, Mike and Bob crossed the Atlantic in Morpheus. I was planning on rejoining the ship in the Azores. God laughs at us when we make plans...
I came down with what turned out to be a wicked case of the flu 4 days before the boat was scheduled to leave and 3 days before I was to fly. I thought it was Dengue fever. I haven't felt that bad in 20 years! Ugh. But I did get on the plane, and made it to San Fransisco, hopefully without getting everyone else on the flight sick... The airlines really should change their policy and reschedule passengers at no cost if they are sick. Brother Dan picked me up at the airport and was sweet enough to let his sick sister pass out on his sofa for two days. I then quarantined myself into a hotel for 3 days to finish convalescing. The result of all this sick time was that I totally would have missed out on seeing Jim's family, Chris and all our friends! So I canceled the 4 days I was to spend in San Diego visiting my Dad and spent it instead in No. Ca seeing all the people i was supposed to have seen the week before. Chris and I got an entire day together going to a horse show, eating Mexican food and going shopping. Lot's of talking and solving the world's issues. All worked out well, except I never got to see Sister Sally, or Kathleen. I'm sorry guys! You are at the top of the list next trip! Thank You Denise and Kam for letting me invade your house!
From CA I flew to Florida to See my sister Tori and to fulfill my civic duty of Jury Duty. Some how the sate of FL had no sympathy for me living on a boat in the Caribbean and required me to fly "home" to FL to do my duty. I sat in the Assembly room for 2/3-rds of a day, watched a great Disney movie, "A Dolphins Tail", and was then dismissed because the case settled! Whoot! By this time Jim had made it to the Azores, and after comparing schedules, I decided to not join up with the boat in the Azores, but to hook up in Cascais, Portugal about 10 days later than planned. This gave me time to have a longer visit with Tori in FL, and then visit my brother Kevin in TX AND spend 3 days in Atlanta visiting my sister Nina AND my Dad and Lani who were all getting together for Niece Margaret's High School graduation. Talk about killing a flock of birds with only one delay! My only question was where had Cascais, Portugal come into play. I thought the boat was headed for Seville, Spain after the Azores. Once I got the LP Travel Guide and started checking it out, all became clear.... Cascais has some of the best Kite Boarding in the world. Duuhhh....
I had a great time in FL with Tori and her family, and Patrick flew down from New York to spend a 3 day weekend with us. I spent many hours talking at the kitchen table, watching Tori ride her absolutely stunning little filly Seraphina, choosing clothes with Brynn and her girlfriends, and watching Austin and Barry work out with Bart. We also spent a bunch of time walking the dogs... well, I mostly carried Ita since there was a Big Gator living in the front pond. I had so much fun! My family is so wonderful. I invade their house, with not only me, my stuff and my dog, but one of my kids, too! And aside from some missing makeup brushes, for which I am under suspicion, all went off without a hitch! I promise Tori, I don't have them!!!
From FL on to TX, where my brother picks me up 48 hours after being released by the Red Cross from the Red Cross response to the West, TX disaster. He was a tired puppy. I think he was down there for 3 weeks coordinating all the computers and communication for the disaster response. So for the first few days, Sandy and I get to toodle around and find the last few things I need before I get back to the boat. Things like a Lonely Planet guide for Portugal, Travel Papers for Ita to enter the EU, warm socks for Jim, and more Tootsie Pops for the boat. Lots of walking the dogs here, too. Last Sunday was mother's Day, so Sandy had a big BBQ at her house. Niece Mandy, Carson and the twins Mason and Bell came over, and Niece Linden and her fiance Nathan, too! We talked all about new houses, new babies, and wedding plans. It was a great Day!! And I got calls from both Chris and Pat! Score!
Today Jim leaves Horta, so we have synchronized our chronometers and plan to hook back up in Cascais, Portugal on May 20th. Wow! That's almost a month to the day! In between then and now, Kevin, Sandy and I are going Zip lining today in an ancient Cedar forest (similar to CA's Red Woods), then babysitting the twins for a few days while Carson and 7 month pregnant Mandy move into their beautiful new house. After that, I'm off to Atlanta for 3 days on Friday, then homeward bound to Portugal!
This will be a whole new type of cruising for us. I'm thinking more leaving the boat at the docks and more day tripping and overnighting inland to see the sites. And more Horseback Riding! This will also be a great opportunity for friends to come visit! We are not hard to find. Just check the blog!
A HUGE thanks to my Brothers and Sisters, family and friends who let me descend upon them, with my dog, my kids and all the rest of my baggage, as well as changing their schedules around to come see me You let me borrow cars, picked me up at airports at inconvenient times, and mostly don't cringe when my dog barks. (Thanks, Suzanne, for getting her started!) ):-(
I love you all and I'll see you in Europe!
XXOO
Deb
Departure Day
Bob Branstad returns from the 100th birthday celebrations for his mother tomorrow morning at 0930.
If all goes well, we will arrive at the marine in Punta Delgado, check in, add Bob to our paperwork, check out and then be on our way.
Next destination is Cascais, Portugal. Debbie (remember Debbie?), plans to rejoin us in Cascais on the 20th!!
Cafe Sport
History of Cafe Sport"If you sail to Horta and you don't visit Peter's, you have not actually been to Horta." This is, especially among yachtsmen, a common phrase repeated several times and expresses a reality that was built around a coffee house-bar that has attained a remarkable global projection, first among international yachtsmen for whom Peter’s provides shelter, support and the right atmosphere for lively socializing and pleasant conversations. Later ordinary travelers and tourists also sought there the mystique and fame of a special atmosphere enjoying a gin and tonic. In addition to the sheltering, relaxation and socializing that 20th-century sailors look for at Peter’s, the demand for Horta also lies in the privileged strategic position that the Azores occupy between America and Europe, turning them into an unavoidable stopover while crossing the Atlantic.
Sunday, May 12, 2013
Nice Neighborhood
Touring Faial Island with Serafim
Touring the volcanic island with our taxi / guide Serafim.
This is Serafim. Bob recommended that we find him after he took Bob to the airport. It was a good call. If you find yourself on Faial Island in the Azores, you cannot do better than tracking down Serafim in Taxi #3 for a tour of the Island he loves.
He is quite an interesting guy in his own right. He lived in the United States in Lowell, Mass. and San Jose. Ca. where he played soccer professionally (at the time, this meant playing for little more than room and board) and fished for a living.
 |
| It is unsettling that one of the people in this picture is older that giant mass of land behind them |
I was curious about their preparation and Serafim found a local on the shore to offer up a few samples.
Neither Kim or Jim were interested in eating them raw, so Serafim and I happily slurped them down. To me they look and taste like baby abalone. Later we enjoyed another preparation - cooked in butter and garlic, along with other local delicacies (new and aged cheese, fresh fish, linguica sausage, potatoes and yams) at Cafe' Rumar a small roadside restaurant we never would have found on our own. The food was extraordinary.
Jim asked Serafim if the cheese was produced locally on the islands. Serafim looked him in the eye and with an authoritative tone offered up the Quote of the Day:
"This cheese is from his cow."We struggle to capture on film any semblance of the vistas we are enjoying on a tour like this. Panorama shots are about as close as we will come. More pics from a great day (click to biggify):
North coast whaling "harbor" - then and now.
MW Recommended: The Serafim Tour of Faial
Serafim's card and home (note the Portuguese, American, and California flags)
Saturday, May 11, 2013
Friday, May 10, 2013
Horta and "Galileo Part Deux"
Then into town for lunch and drinks.
First (and last) stop of the day was Peter's Sports Cafe. Peter's is a sailing institution and a mandatory first stop.
Yum.
On the way back to the boat, Bob noticed a sailboat pulling into port flying the yellow quarantine flag. Th Q flag is mandated for all boats that have not yet passed through customs. It was the Galileo. The very boat that passed us at sea on April 30 and hailed us with an ill advised wager regarding first boat to Horta.
To see Galileo, a bigger faster boat, arriving later than us was surprising to say the least. But since they were clearly arriving after us... well... I felt compelled to walk down the dock and welcome them to Horta.
As I approach the boat I catch the attention of a young deck hand cleaning up and nod in his general direction. The dockside conversation goes something like this:
MW gesturing at Morpheus logo on shirt : "Hi. I'm from Morpheus. We met you at sea a few days ago."Deck hand disappears and time passes. Tall dark haired American appears on deck. Pleasantries exchanged. Then:
Deck hand stands up and looks. Pause. "Oh yeah. That was the engineer. I'll get him for you."
MW: "That's the Q Flag flying there is it not?"Fast forward a few hours. We have just finished a fine dinner at Medalhas. A charming rustic eatery we found on a side street described as "Taberna & Casa De Pasto".
Engineer: "Yes it is. We have the bubonic plague aboard."
MW laughs pleasantly: "That means you are still restricted to the boat until passing customs"
Engineer: "Yes."
MW nods sagely: "I am standing on the dock."
Engineer: "I see that. We were delayed sailing a search pattern."
MW: "Looking forward to seeing you in town."
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| Grilled squid with garlic and butter at Medalhas |
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| Engineer 3rd from right in blue shirt |
Galileo Engineer: "You guys were really hauling ass out there. We couldn't believe how fast you were sailing. How big is the Morpheus? sixty - seventy feet?"
Captain Jim (looking like the cat that swallowed the canary) with his Quote of The Day: "No - Just fifty feet."Long story short - It turns out that there was an EPIRB distress signal from a small sailboat and Galileo diverted for several days to search for survivors. They offered to buy drinks per the terms of the wager, but under the circumstances, we could not accept.
On a more serious note. Galileo's diversion reminds us that, despite our great conditions and good luck on the passage thus far, the Atlantic is not to be trifled with. Here is the story about the search for the French boat that diverted Galileo:
"Grain de Soleil", a French sailboat (33 feet sky blue hull) and its three sailors have gone missing 500 Miles South West of the Azores. They set of their distress beacon on April 24th. The search and rescue operation was initiated as soon as the beacon’s signal was received. Planes flew over the zone and ships in the area were notified. The yacht was sailing from the Caribbean to Brittany, it seems the crew are either in a life-raft or under jury rig. On April 27th the beacon gave a last position signal.
The calculated drifting zone from May 6th is:
A: 35°52N 37°22'60WB: 36°15N 35°45'60WC: 33°45'60N 35°45'60WD: 33°22N 37°33'60W
Two other boats may also have gone missing in the same zone having been hit by the same storm (neither have distress beacons)."
That was not our only brush with some nearby unfortunate events at sea. A few nights ago we were passed by the passenger ship New Amsterdam. After doing some research about the lost French boat, we also learned the New Amsterdam was carrying two sailors picked up after when their sailboat found trouble in the same seas we were sailing.
Sobering. Well. Not literally. But I digress.
The reality is that a journey of this nature requires a properly equipped and well maintained boat you can trust as well as a captain that knows its capabilities intimately and makes right decisions. With that, you may not need good luck, but you still need to avoid bad luck. It also helps to have a guardian angel like Gibb obsessing over waves weather and wind conditions with continuous updates via sail mail.
We are fortunate to have all of the above this passage.
"Two men on a disabled sailboat have been rescued by the cruise ship ms Nieuw Amsterdam. Hearing a mayday signal, the cruise ship diverted from its course to save the sailboat’s crew in a nighttime rescue. “It is a time-honored law of the sea that any ship in the vicinity should render assistance to a vessel in distress that has issued a call for help,” said Richard Meadows, Holland America Line’s executive vice president of sales, marketing and guest programs."
The reality is that a journey of this nature requires a properly equipped and well maintained boat you can trust as well as a captain that knows its capabilities intimately and makes right decisions. With that, you may not need good luck, but you still need to avoid bad luck. It also helps to have a guardian angel like Gibb obsessing over waves weather and wind conditions with continuous updates via sail mail.
We are fortunate to have all of the above this passage.
Tell me again. Why did we leave the Caribbean??
I understand that this is a bit out of sequence, but it does apply now for a couple of reasons.
- I worked on this and put it together during our passage
- It fits the ongoing theme of me questioning the intelligence of leaving a warm, beautiful place that represents heaven on earth to boaters, and sailing to a cold, blustery, crowded place that I may or may not like.
I can't really answer that now, but certainly hope that the answer becomes clear over the next few months!
Landfall Horta, Azores
Landfall Horta, Azores - Report from the Captain
We are here!! 2500 ocean miles behind us and we have arrived!!
All are healthy, boat damage limited to one full batten attachment bolt, a batten end cap, and one small fitting on the radar reflector.
It is cold, grey, raining every once in a while, etc.
I continue to wonder why I thought this was a great idea....
We have cleared Customs, Immigration, etc.
Bob Branstad can't wait to leave to make sure that he makes his Mom's 100th Birthday Party on the 11th.
We will soon move to our assigned slip, and he will then head to the airport.
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| Official Greeter for Port of Horta |
- Jim
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